The medieval town of Besalú has a rich heritage dating back more than a millennia. The town is located about 1 hour and 30 minutes from Barcelona. Getting there is best reached by car. Take the A7 direction Girona and take Exit 6, Palafrugell, Palamós then on the C66 straight to Besalú. We enjoyed a great day in this clean, tranquil feudal town appreciating it’s feeling of age and narrow cobble stoned streets.
Besalú stands out like Gerona for it rich medieval architecture and structures. It was once the capital of the county of Besalú during its feudal period – Charlemagne's 8th and 9th century. Due to a lack of an heir it later fell under the jurisdiction of Barcelona. Although it was invaded by the Moors none of their epoch remains.
The highlight of the town is the Romanesque walled bridge with well-preserved garrets and towers. It looks as beautiful as it does ominous. The Bridge crosses the Fluvia River and must have provided a great deal of protection from invading forces. Nowadays you cannot sense the river’s protection. The dropping of the river’s depth now provides a more pleasurable and scenic aspect. From the riverbanks/riverbed you can view the bridges impressive architecture above and its foundation resting on river rocks.
There are tours that give a greater appreciation of the town, although I preferred to go around at my own pace. Quite rare to encounter in Spain, scattered around the town there are a lot of plaçards explaining historical sites next to places of interest. A Tren Turistic offers tours every 45 minutes during the day for visits inside the churches and the Jewish Mikvah.
Like Gerona the town has a Jewish heritage. Near to the river you can find the remains of the Jewish quarter. Notably there are the remains of a Synagogue and a Mikvah (Jewish ritual purity bath house). This is quite a treasure as it is unique in Spain! You will have to go to the tourist office in Plaça de la Llibertat or join one of the tours.
Standing between the tall walls dark alley leading to the Jewish quarter is very eerie experience. More so, when you find out the section was walled and separated off by royal anti-Semitic sentiments in 1415.
Walking around the town you will note it has three religious buildings dedicated to Sant Julia, Sant Pere and Sant Vincenc. The latter is a quaint Gothic chapel but my highlight was the architecture of the 12th century monastery of Sant Pere. Their exteriors are well preserved. It is a pity that these sites can only be visited on guided tours. If the sun is not reflecting off the windows you can view their interiors by dropping a Euro in a coffer slot near the windows.
Near the river you will find the remains of the Jewish quarter. Standing in the tall dark alley leading to the Jewish quarter is very eerie when told that the section was separated in 1415. At the time by royal degree the area was walled and effectively sectioned off.
Notably there are the remains of a Synagogue and a mikvah (Jewish ritual purity bath house) in Besalú. You will have to go to the tourist office in plaça de la Llibertat to pick up a key to visit it. It costs 0,60€. This site is quite a treasure being unique in Spain!
The town has narrow streets that open onto market squares. In the two main plaças offering a choice of tapas, pizza and more exotic food. I recommend the numerous restaurants boasting historic food traditions within the town. The cuisine here is called ‘volcanic’, mainly as inactive but not extinct volcanoes have provided rich soil for growing rich tasting foods.
The stand-out restaurants include Cúria Reial, Olivera, Cal Parent, Can Quei and El Pont Vell. For me it was a dream come true. I am a big fan of nouveau medieval cuisine. Some of the meals include a variety of wild boar, duck, rabbit, bacon, snails, pears chestnuts and my favourite setas. Look out for restaurants serving “fesols de Santa Pau" basically tasty beans.
Notably these restaurants use an alcoholic beverage called Ratafia. This is a tasty but sweet drink has a dark grapey/plumb spicy cordial drink with heavy overtones of Christmas spices like cinnamon, cloves, walnut, and nutmeg. It is smoother but a lot sweeter than mulled wine. Most shops sell it and offer a free taster.
The town is filled with stores with local food produce and tourist shops. Many stores sell the usual medieval tourist tat. The difference is the choice of unique jewellery, ceramic, metal and wood utensil sellers. Additionally there are authentically made dairy and meat products. There are various bodegas selling young wine in plastic bottles. For 6€ you can pick up 5 litres of local high quality Merlot or Grenache table wine. Although, I found the staff uninformed about the wine it tasted good.
Around the town is some really surreal art. When walking around, look up to the sides of churches and various buildings. On some you will see chairs with their legs fixed to the wall. For some impressive history, good food and a chilled setting, do not miss your chance of visiting Besalú.
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